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Long reserved for the preppy look, pearls are shedding their bourgeois connotations to assert their fashion potential on the catwalks that count.
Pearls were omnipresent on the spring and summer 2024 catwalks from New York to Paris to London to Milan. They were most notably seen at Givenchy, where the collection, presented by artistic director Matthew M. Williams, featured an ear cuff, earrings, and rings adorned with large, perfectly contoured pearls.
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If last season we were all about baroque beads, more conventional ones are now ascending. For proof, take a look at the runway looks from Versace and Dior. Donatella Versace and Maria Grazia Chuiri, the fashion houses’ respective artistic directors, adorned their silhouettes with pearl-set jewelry.
And how can we talk about pearls without mentioning Chanel? Coco Chanel, who started making jewelry in 1932, put pearls on her most famous pieces. Karl Lagerfeld, who took his first steps at the helm of the house’s artistic direction in 1983, also used them in his collections.
Under the leadership of Virginie Viard, the French institution continues to make them its signature. Proof is provided by the iconic pearl chain featured on the latest show.
These treasures buried at the bottom of the sea also flourish in the current collections of jewelers such as Tasaki, Charlotte Chesnais, Nora Bordjah, Sophie Bille Brahe, and Yvonne Léon, to name but a few.
The precious and chic bead, already present on the catwalks of previous Fashion Weeks, is unquestionably the major trend of the season, and it’ll be sticking to its guns next season. We’re now talking about the pearlcore phenomenon.
It didn’t take much for celebrities to get their hands on the trend. The red carpet at the Met Gala 2023 is proof: Silhouettes were covered in pearls to celebrate the exhibition Karl Lagerfeld: A Line of Beauty at New York’s Metropolitan Museum of Art last May.
Because pearls can be adapted to any style, many celebs now wear them day and night.
Gigi Hadid wore pearl earrings in NYC this week, while Hailey Bieber was spotted earlier this year in a Tiffany & Co. pearl set.
And Sofia Richie has also posted herself wearing a Chanel pearl necklace.
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The same goes for men. While many of them restrict themselves to watches, others make no secret of their attraction to jewelry. They’re turning established codes on their head with an explosion of jewelry, particularly pearls. Timothée Chalamet is the standard-bearer for the trend.
A$AP Rocky and Usher also make pearls their fashion essentials, adorning themselves with layered necklaces, bracelets and oversized rings, each more extraordinary than the last, with a definite taste for opulent beaded pieces.
This story was originally published on Vogue France.